It is Thursday morning so I head to the open-air market on Gloucester Green. At the heart of today’s city this is a square of flats and shops sandwiched between two very different thoroughfares. You approach it from either Beaumont Street, with its grand houses, world-famous Ashmolean Museum and Randolph Hotel, or George Street, the place to go for a night out at the New Theatre or Odeon, and ending in one of the many chain restaurants and bars. The first thing you notice are the stalls with their bright blue and yellow awnings that stay up Wednesday to Saturday nowadays. I worry that the burgeoning number of street food outlets that have taken up residence might eventually swamp the place entirely.
But for the moment Thursday is still the day for those of us who like to potter and chat over the assortment of bric-a-brac, books and second-hand clothing on offer. I’m such a frequent visitor I’m on first name terms with many of the traders. Peter, now in his eighties, who has furnished most of Oxford’s front doors with brass knockers and letterboxes has traded here since the current market was set up in 1990; Jean who trawls the car boot sales for bargains and does a lovely job of reupholstering battered old stools; Christian, from whose van spills out the latest house clearance; and Diana who comes with boxes of colourful ribbons, threads, and buttons as well as the most tasteful of vintage clothing and crockery. A Hawaiian cocktail bar made from bamboo is my favourite purchase to date. A threadbare dog on wheels comes a close second.
Gloucester Green is not very green these days. And the medieval Gloucester College founded by the Benedictine monks of Gloucester Abbey in 1283, whose land this once was, became Worcester College in the 18th century. Like so much of Oxford the name is all that is left of what went before. Friars Entry, a narrow alleyway that leads from the market to Magdalen Street was once the only direct route for the Carmelite White Friars who set up home roughly where The Oxford Playhouse is today, up to the Northgate and into the town centre. A white robed ghostly figure apparently still haunts the place.
Gloucester Green has had a colourful history since then. It was a bowling green in the 1600’s, and then laid out as a public square. It was also a place of execution. There’s a plaque pinned to a wall high up behind the bike racks, commemorating Private Biggs and Private Piggen, who were shot here like their Leveller colleagues in Burford, for their part in the mutiny of the Oxford garrison in September 1649 by troops loyal to Oliver Cromwell. In the 1700’s it became the site for the city gaol. From 1835-1932 the cattle market was held at Gloucester Green before it became the central bus station, a grey dismal place I spent many an hour in my teenage years (coaches to London and the airports still depart from the west.)
So it seems fitting that today it remains a gathering place for visitors to the city, a melting pot of different tradespeople selling their wares, and a destination for locals like me who come to celebrate the rich diversity of its offerings. I do hope it hangs on in there. Today I am particularly pleased. I have come see Dave and Jean, an eccentric friendly pair who sell everything for either £1 or 20 pence. There doesn’t seem to be any logic as to which of these prices they decide on, and though they call out that these bargains are ‘for one day only’, it’s the same every week. Rummaging through a box of old photographs I come across a bag of Victorian and Edwardian Easter postcards with personal messages written neatly on the back in ink. They became a popular seasonal missive after the halfpenny postcard rate was introduced in 1870. I buy the lot. Perfect pieces of nostalgia for this time of year, with messages of renewal and hope. Some use the religious imagery of crosses, others are sentimental featuring rabbits and children hatching out of eggs or holding spring flowers, many are downright bizarre. I particularly like the naked megalomanic twins wielding hammers. They might even make it on to my list of favourite purchases. Happy Easter everyone.
Some of the cards below are examples of Easter cards I found online at bbc.co.uk
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Happy Easter Arabella! Love the fact about the halfpenny postcard rate!
Did you know that the erstwhile school on George St was made from recycled stone from the Gloucester Green prison?
The city prison (as opposed to the county gaol at the Castle) was at Gloucester Green from 1789 to 1878. Here’s a map showing its position in relation to George Lane (now George Street): https://www.oxfordhistory.org.uk/images/images_cornmarket/history/city_gaol_davis_map.jpg
The Central Boys’ School (now a restaurant) was next to the Cattle Market at Gloucester Green from 1901 to 1934 and was one of the first three board schools in Oxford, all erected in the same year. Here’s the architect’s drawing of it: https://www.oxfordhistory.org.uk/images/images_schools/central_boys/gloucestergreen_school.jpg
I agree – the hammer wielding twins are brilliant. So is the maiden fair with the lethal stare. But the one that really worries me is the egg packed with human babies
Lovely Bolly! Happy Easter x
Happy Easter Arabella! I enjoyed your Easter Greetings. Dave and Jean’s stall is a treasure trove. I don’t know where they find it all. My favourite thing I have bought from them is a large painted cornucopia with vegatables painted on it. The demi-monde in Gloucester Green, on the fringes of Oxford society. I got to know them all when I ran my street food stall ‘I Love Ethiopia’. Market life is hard. The law of the jungle is balanced by fierce loyalty amongst traders. I still enjoy market rates, and a benevolent camaraderie that only blood, sweat, and tears earns.
Yes I can see everyone works very hard there and they look after each other. Thank you for your personal insights.
Up to form.Sadly the street food vendors are the ones who want stalls these days.How some of them make money beats me.Tom the german sausage man is on at Lazy Saturday in Mount Place on April 20th.Come and enjoy him, beer and music.Mount Place, by the by, worthy of a sausage
Delightful, colourful and a most pleasant read. The cover image for the post ‘A Glad Easter’ is our favorite. Kindness is an attractive trait. Cheers …
The market breaths life into the city. Long may it continue!
Thank you so much for The Oxford Sausage, I am a new member and enjoying catching up with all the delightful posts. I was born in Oxford in1941 and lived there until 1959 .and now live in Austin Texas, The Easter cards were such fun I especially liked the dancing Egg Rabbits!” “tuning in” to the Oxford Sausage is like a visit Home.. Rosemary Russell
Thank you so much for The Oxford Sausage, it is a delight! I am new member so have lots of posts and blogs to catch up with Hurrah. I was born in Oxford in 1941 and lived there until 1959,I live in Austin Texas now Every posting is like a visit home On a visit home one summer I went to the Wednesday Market and at the used book store bought a 1949 Kellys Oxford directory f0r 50p its proved invaluable to look up street and names of old friends. The Easter cards were fun I especially liked the dancing Easter egg rabbits.